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Location: 95-km
From Srinagar, Kashmir Region, J&K
Altitude: 2,130m
Main Attractions: Mamaleshwara, Baisaran, Tulian Lake, Aru
Best Time To Visit: In Summer - May To September In Winter -
November To February
The Valley Of
Shepherds
At an altitude of 2,130m and about 95-km from Srinagar , Pahalgam is
probably the most popular hill resort in the Kashmir valley. Since it is
rather lower than Gulmarg the nighttime temperatures do not drop so low
and it has the further advantage of the beautiful Lidder River running
right through the town.
Pahalgam is situated at the junction of the Aru and Sheshnag Rivers and
surrounded by soaring, fir-covered mountains with bare, snow-capped
peaks rising behind them. The Aru flows down from the Kolahoi glacier
beyond Lidderwat while the Sheshnag from glaciers along the great
Himalayan.
At the confluence of the streams flowing from the river Lidder and
Sheshnag Lake, Pahalgam was once a humble shepherd's village with
breathtaking views. Now it Kashmir's premier resort, cool even during
the height of summer. A number of hotels and lodges cater to all
preferences and budgets, from luxurious to unpretentious trekkers'
lodges, including JKTDC's delightfully romantic, fully furnished huts,
partially concealed by giant pine trees.
Pahalgam Walks
There are many short walks available from Pahalgam and in addition it is
an excellent base for longer treks such as those to the Kolahoi glacier
or to the Amarnath cave. Pahalgam can also be used as a starting point
for treks out of the region. Pahalgam is particularly famed for its many
shepherds and they're a common sight, driving their flocks of sheep
along the paths all around the town.
PRIME
ATTRACTIONS
Around Pahalgam are many places of interest, and because the resort
is set between fairly hills, it is worth hiring a pony rather than
walking. Pony fares are posted at prominent locations.
Mamaleshwara
Mamaleshwara is only a km or so downstream from Pahalgam, and on the
opposite side of the Lidder, is this small Shiva temple with its square,
stone tank. It is thought to date from the reign of king Jayasima in the
12th century, even earlier.
Baisaran
This meadow, about 5-km from Pahalgam and 150m higher, provides
excellent views over the town and the Lidder valley. Pine forests and
the snowclad mountains surround the grassy glen. One can hire ponies for
this trek from near the centre of town.
Tulian Lake
If one continues 11-km beyond Baisaran one reaches the Tulian Lake at
3,353m, 1,200m higher up. It is covered in ice for much of the year and
surrounded by peaks, which rise more than 300m above its shores. It also
can be reached by pony trek.
Aru
The little village of Aru is actually the first stage from Pahalgam on
the trek to Lidderwat and the Kolahoi glacier. It makes an interesting
day walk from Pahalgam, following the Lidder river for Pahalgam,
following the Lidder river for 11-km upstream. The main track, which
also can be taken by car, is on the left bank of the river. There is
also a less used, and more difficult path, on the right bank. At Aru one
will often find the Gujars, living in their log huts with their flocks
of sheep and goats, en route to the higher sheep and goats, en route to
the higher pastures for the summer.
Hajan
Hajan, on the way to Chandanwari is an idyllic spot for a picnic.
Filmgoers will recognize it instantly as it has been the location of
several movie scenes.
Chandanwari & Passage To The Amarnath Yatra
Situated 16-km from Pahalgam, Chandanwari is the starting point of the
Amarnath Yatra, which takes place every year in the month of Sawan
(Rain). The destination is the Amarnath Cave, believed to the abode of
Lord Shiva. Although the road from Pahalgam to Chandanwari is on fairly
flat terrain, and can be undertaken by car, from Chandanwari onwards the
track becomes much steeper, being accessible on foot or by pony.
Located 11-km from Chandanwari is the mountain lake of Sheshnag, after
which 13-km away is the last stop, Panchtarni. The Amarnath cave is 6-km
away from there. During the month of 'Sawan', an ice stalagmite forms a
natural Shivling (also spelt as Shivlinga), which waxes and wanes with
the phases of the moon.
The state government makes extensive arrangements every year for the
successful completion of the pilgrimage, registering each one of the
over one lakh pilgrims, pony owners and Dandi Walas, providing camps en
route, and ensuring safe, comfortable and speedy progress of the Yatris.
Even if one's visit to Pahalgam is not during the period of the Yatra,
one can still take a pony ride up to Sheshnag Lake, returning late
evening.
Fishing
Pahalgam is one of Kashmir's popular trout fishing beats. Kashmir is
famous for its trout although they tend to be rather small.
Additionally, fishing licences are hard to get and rather expensive. A
compulsion is to keep am guide and one is also permitted to catch six
fishes, which is the daily limit.
EXCURSIONS
On The Road To
Pahalgam
The road to Pahalgam starts out towards Jammu but later branches off to
the east at Anantnag. There are a number of points of interest along
this route including several Mughal gardens - indeed if one take a bus
tour to Pahalgam one'll be thoroughly saturated with Mughal gardens by
the time one arrives.
Pampore 
Only 16-km out of Srinagar on the main highway south, Pampore is the
Centre of Kashmir's saffron industry. Highly prized for it's flavouring
and colouring properties and rather expensive, saffron is gathered from
flowers, which are harvested in October.
Avantipur
This popular stop on Pahalgam excursions is noted for its two ruined
Hindu temples. The temples were both constructed by King Avantivarman,
after whom this ancient centre was named, between 855 and 883 AD. The
larger of the two is dedicated to Vishnu and known as the Avantiswami
temple. A huge wall encloses the central shrine with four smaller
shrines around the centre. The other temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and
known as the Avantishvara, is about a km before the Vishnu temple, but
also close to the main road. It is situated in a courtyard, enclosed by
a massive stonewall with a gateway on the western side. The nearby
village of Bijbihara has a huge Chinar tree, claimed to be the largest
in Kashmir.
Sangam
A little further down the road, Sangam is interesting for its strong
local industry of cricket bat manufacturing! One'll see thousands of
cricket bats displayed by the roadside and thousands more roughly cut
lengths of wood being seasoned.
Anantnag
At this point the road fords, one route turning northeast to Pahalgam
and two others southeast to Achabal and Kokarnag or to Verinag. The
Jammu road leaves this route just before Anantnag at Khanabal.
Anantnag has a number of sulphur springs, esteemed for their curative
properties. The largest spring is believed to be the home of Ananta, the
serpent on which Lord Vishnu reclines and from which the town takes its
name - 'Abode of Ananta'. Ananta means 'endless' and the water issues
from the base of a small hillock and rushes into another spring in the
middle of which is a natural mineral deposit column which the locals
revere as a lingam. On the 14th day of a full moon fortnight in
September/October, there is a festival where the people fast and pour
rice and milk into the spring to feed the goldfish.
At one time Anantnag was known as Islamabad but this name is no longer
used, due to the confusion it would cause with the not too far distant
capital of Pakistan also named Islamabad.
Achabal
The Mughal gardens in this small town were begun by Nur Jahan and
completed by Jahanara, daughter of Shah Jahan, in 1640. It's one of the
most carefully designed of the Kashmir gardens and was said to be a
favourite retreat of Nur Jahan. Water from a copious spring flows from
the garden in three stone lined canals, over three terraces and three
cascades, with several fountains in the main canal. There are three
pavilions on the upper terrace, shaded by Chinar Trees. There's a
tourist bungalow, tourist huts and a camping ground at Achabal.
Kokarnag
One may be suffering garden overload by the time one gets here, but
Kokarnag has yet another one, noted for its roses. Like Achabal there is
a tourist bungalow, tourist huts and a camping ground for accommodation.
Daksum
Somewhat above Kokarnag, along the bring river valley, there's the small
hill resort of Daksum at 2,438m. It's on the trekking route to Kishtwar
and has a Rest house, Tourist Bungalow and plenty of camping spots. From
Daksum the trail rises fairly steeply to the Sinthan Pass at 3,748m. The
pass is open from April to September for trekkers.
Mattan & Martand
Only a few km beyond Anantnag, on the Pahalgam road, Mattan is an
important Hindu pilgrimage point due to its fish filled springs. A
complicated legend relates that the springs were created when Lord Shiva
broke open an egg, which had been thrown there, the egg being the
reincarnated form of a forgetful boy, who had been cursed by a wandering
sage and that's only half the story!
On a plateau above Mattan and 3-km to the south, stands the huge ruined
temple of Martand. Built by Lalitaditya Mukhtapida it is the most
impressive ancient ruin in Kashmir and beautifully sited. The ruins are
67m by 43m and consist of a portico with a small-detached shrine on both
side and a quadrangular courtyard. The courtyard was surrounded by 84
columns - the multiple of the number of days in the week by the number
of signs in the zodiac.
From here to Pahalgam the road follows the course of the Lidder River,
past some good trout fishing stretches.
Verinag
Close to the foot of the Pir Panjal range, the spring at Verinag is said
to be the source of the Jhelum river, which flows north through Srinagar,
Jehangir built an octagonal stone basin at the spring in 1612 and in
1620 his son, Shah Jahan, laid out a garden around it. The spring is
said to be over 15m deep and is reputed never to dry up or overflow.
There is also a tourist bungalow at Verinag.
HOW TO REACH
THERE
Air: Pahalgam
is in Anantnag District and is about 96-km from Srinagar. The nearest
airport is in Badgam District. This Airport is connected with all the
major cities of India. Rail: The nearest Rail Head is at Jammu and from
there National Highway NH1A connects the Kashmir valley with India.
Road: The road to Pahalgam can be taken to Khannabal or
alternatively from Bijbehara villages from National Highway NH1A. Every
sort of transport to suit every budget from Buses to Taxis ply on this
Highway. It takes around 10 to 12 hours to cross this mountainous road,
which crosses some beautiful spots and the famous Jawahar Tunnel linking
Kashmir Valley with India. Bus service is available from Srinagar and
Anantnag, which leave at fixed time from the Bus stands. Taxis and other
sort of transport can be hired from Srinagar at pre-fixed rates.
Assistance is available at Tourist Reception Centre, Srinagar. On Road
to Pahalgam one comes across the beautiful Lidder Valley with important
spots of Mattan and Aishmuqam.
WHERE TO STAY
Pahalgam has a
number of Hotels and lodges of various types, which are open only during
summer months. JKTDC has a Dak Bungalow and number of Huts, which are
available on hire. The tariffs depend on the type of accommodation to be
hired. Accomodation needs to be booked well in advance from Srinagar.
Tourists are advised to contact Manager Tourist Reception centre Jammu/Srinagar
for booking and Tariffs. Hotel bookings can be executed from their
representatives in Srinagar the list of which can be had from the JKTDC.
MORE TOURIST INFORMATION
The tourist
office is just around the corner from the bus halt, on the main road.
They may be able to help with hiring porters or ponies. Fishing permits
have to be obtained in Srinagar. There is a bank in Pahalgam and a post
office during the tourist season. If one is planning on trekking from
Pahalgam there are plenty of shops selling food supplies although it's
cheaper and more plentiful in Srinagar. If trekking is altogether too
strenuous Pahalgam also offers the Pahalgam club with tennis courts,
badminton courts, a golf course and card evenings!
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